Xtreme Mower Mayhem

So i just bought my first racing mower yesterday.  Its a craftsman frame with a 16.5 HP B&S V-Twin engine.  The frame has alread been stretched and lowered.  I clocked it today at 24MPH.  I am wondering of ways to get more speed and power out of it, I have heard that they can go up to 60 MPH.  I have read about different governor setups, but how can i get around those for max RPMs.  Another problem I have run into is the front end;  It is extremely loose and not safe at high speeds.  What is the best way to tighten up my steering system, so that i can get better and more responsive control?  Thanks for any input!!!

Rich

First you have to consider the safety factors. Teather switch--brakes--and because the front end is loose-that is notgood. The front axle has to be solid. Not really catching a govenor set-up but the gearing is a factor. I guess it depends what usage you want your mower to perform in. As for me, I have one built for drag racing, onefor enduro racing, demo derby, one to collect golf balls in, (ha ha ha), and a monster mower (several). What is your focus and build from there.

I agree with Kel- saftey is #1 factor!  My murray ( in the profile pic) has  gone well over 40 ( i havent actually clocked it yet) WITH the governer on and its a stock 18.5HP twin and it scares the heck out of me in its almost near stock form- it wobbles and seems to have NO steering at higher speeds ( 1/2 throttle and 4th gear, it has 6!)  - i refuse to run it fast again till i make proper mods to it- like lowering, direct steer, BRAKES- i even wear my old snowobile helmit when i drove it.

Another thing i wont do is bypass or remove the governer- ive seen pics of a cast flywheel explode- so mine stay on.

Imagine something comming off at 40 plus MPH-  like a wheel or steering breaks- a trip to the hospital- if youre lucky.......

Do it safe.

Front end & Steering wobble = loose bearings & bushings! Check everything from the top column mount to the wheel bearings, and snug them up with shims, bushings, sleeves or what ever it takes! These fixes are cheap life & health insurance!

Oddly the steering on mine is tight when its sitting there- but it gets way loose going faster- probably cause of the large wheels/steering linkage. Its just waiting its turn in the shed. I havent actually driven it in like well over a year.

Another factor of the wobble: I live on a dirt road.

well iagree with the steering part.....has to be safe, and properly safe, try not to cut too many corners in yor build, and switch ot the pulley sizes front and back try what works best for u for yor application.....this can make a huge difference and easy and cheap!!!

Yeah i knew from the beginning i wasnt gonna keep the stock stuff on it - i just had it running and took it for a spin- i do have a video of it.

how do you determine what gear ratio you have?

Building season starts in two weeks, I might post some diagrams and charts for you. Things I use to help me along, plus a couple of secret build ideas. One being an easy carb mod to accept E-85 fuel.

If your running high RPM's - by bypassing the governer- #1 take that factory stock flywheel out. I can't express the high importance of that!! Replace it with an ARC Billet Flywheel. The #1 place to purchase one is from http://www.eccarburetors.com/

is it possable to weld the spider gears in spicer 4 speed

smitty at 09:55PM on Aug 25, 2009

how do you determine what gear ratio you have?

Me? I have no clue- LOL! Theres theorys and stuff to detirmine that- i just know bigger pulleys on the motor and smaller on the trans makes it go fast-  yoy could probably match the engine/trans pulleys size and still come up with  a decent speed- just might have belt issues.

In my case , since i still have the stock 6 speed, and i dont know what the original ratios are- im not sure what the final ratios would be- i can say with a 6" motor, 4 " trans pulleys, 1st and 2nd are almost stock speeds - over 3rd its gets interesting.....i still dont know my top end speed tho.

smitty at 05:13PM on Aug 28, 2009

is it possable to weld the spider gears in spicer 4 speed

Anythings possible- depends how strong the welds are and how much power y plan to put thru it.

Most the time the welds fail tho.

well it has plenty of speed on top end but i just need more torque on bottom end and both tires to spin so i wont get stuck

What kind of tractor is it on?  If thats a craftsman ( looks like one) - id swap in a different trans/ right angle gear box  and run a straight rear axle - i used my 85 as a 1st modifed and shortly after i broke most the teeth off the pinon gears.

Theres a way to run a straight axle inside a transaxle but some machining/welding would be needed.

I know what y mean- i use a old agway ( murray) sometimes up north at my folks to go mudding with, its stock- most the time it digs thru pretty good- but when it does get stuck- im really getting muddy......

Look in the photo galley in the live axle mod album.  I never weld the carrage or spider gears. Your welds will fail, contamination from the grease and you'll warp the carrage. You want the live axle to drive both wheels and keep the run-out at a minimum. I agree, some machining and welding would be needed BUT done right, you'll have little problems. Oil-paint-grease-an impurities and welding does not mix.

+_*

Kel

anybody got any ideas on running a motorcycle brake lever as a hand throttle

I used a bicycle shift cable on mineand a atv brake lever - i ditched the lever tho- was too hard to control for me- im still working on the foot pedal- id think itd be pretty similar - youd need some sort of spring on the carb end.

Since i have a twin opposed on my mod, i was able to use the governer - a cable clamp ( has the hoop n two nuts against a flat end) secured the end near the carb on the governer linkage - i had to experement with placement of the spring to get it to snap back correctly tho.

any body here

Sure are --- busy building,

+_*

Kel